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Benefits of Concrete Pavers

- Doesn't crack like asphalt or poured-in-place concrete unit has joints that allow for a small amount of movement without cracking.
- Easy to repair. Remove and reinstate the same pavers with no ugly patches after concrete can't make this claim.
- Resists deterioration.
From freeze-thaw cycles and deicing salts better than asphalt and better than ordinary poured-in-place concrete.
- Snow removal.
The same as with other pavements, just plow, shovel or use a snow blower.
-Many shapes and colors.
Suppliers stock rustic stone-like pavers to those that look like day brick. Light colored pavers offer a cooler surface around patios and pool decks.

Custom Design Border

Try something different,take advantage of our customs borders


Sand Stabilizer

SANDLOCK is a joint sand stabilizer additive for flexible and semi-rigid pavement systems using segmental pavers. SANDLOCK is organic and nontoxic. When mixed with joint sand and activated with water, SANDLOCK forms a natural, rubberized "glue", that binds the joint sand. SANDLOCK remains flexible and will accomodate thermal movement. It's self healing properties allow SANDLOCK to rebind loosened material with any moisture. SANDLOCK is excellent for concrete, clay brick or natural stone pavements. SANDLOCK prevents sand loss due to wind, traffic, moisture or thermal movement. A pavement stabilized with SANDLOCKwill have reduced weed growth from wind blown germination and is effective agains ants. SANDLOCK does not dilute like water based chemical sealers or beak down from ultraviolet light. SANDLOCK is environmentally safe and contains NO harmful chemicals. It is safe for use around plants, animals and people. It works in all climatic conditions. SANDLOCK will save money over premixed binders and savers time over chemical joint stabilizers. SANDLOCK is mixed with joint sand on the job site. Compaction and stabilization are both done at once. No harsh chemical cleaners are needed prior to application. 100% ORGANIC JOINT SAND STABILIZER ADDITIVE for PAVERSCost Effective, just $0.25 per square footSelf-Healing Job Proven



According to a dictionary definition efflorescence is a crystalline deposit on the face of a stone wall. Unfortunately, it is not restricted to stone masonry, and walls of other units, notably bricks, must be included. It is a common problem in many areas of Canada, as it is in many other countries. The immediate problem raised by its occurrence is that of disfigurement of masonry, and severe defacement of a wall is not uncommon. There is, in addition, the possibility of actual damage to masonry from the growth of salt crystals near its surface. Efflorescence usually forms shortly after a building bas been erected, with the result that a brand-new red brick building may become heavily splotched with white, to the dismay of the owner and those associated with its construction.

The problem is not a new one. In an extensive descriptive bibliography prepared in 1925 over 230 references to it are listed for the period between 1877 and 1924. One of the articles traces back the history of the problem at least to the time of the third Napoleon.

An earlier "Building Note" of the Division of Building Research of the National Research Council of Canada (No. 8, by M. J. Goodwin, prepared in 1950) has presented a review of more recent literature on efflorescence. Since it was issued, additional studies of the problem have been undertaken, including the examination of a number of buildings affected by the problem and laboratory studies of some of the factors involved. It is the purpose of this Digest to summarize the results of these studies and of other investigations.

Chemical Nature of Efflorescence

Many kinds of salts have been detected in samples of efflorescence. In the bibliography referred to previously, for example, substances named in the following list were said te have been found in efflorescences:

sodium sulphate potassium sulphate
sodium carbonate calcium sulphate
sodium bicarbonate calcium carbonate
sodium silicate magnesium sulphate

In addition, other salts such as chlorides and nitrates, and salts of vanadium, chromium and molybdenum were mentioned without giving their specific composition. These last, particularly vanadium, were said to produce green efflorescence on white or buff burned clay units, while the other salts produced white or grey deposits. Efflorescence derived from complex vanadium compounds contained in the clay used in brick manufacture is not uncommon in the south-western part of the United States.

For several years, as a part of studies of the Division of Building Research, samples of efflorescence have been taken from buildings and analyzed chemically. Many different types of bricks had been used. In all cases except one, the sample of efflorescence was obtained from the brick surface; in the exception, the bricks of the wall were unmarked by efflorescence, but the mortar joints had heavy salt deposits which projected ¼ to ½ inch from the surface. In all except the mortar joint efflorescence, chemical analysis of the sample indicated that a very large proportion of it was sodium sulphate and potassium sulphate. For the mortar joint efflorescence, however, sodium carbonate was indicated to be the main constituent. The samples contained small amounts or traces of other materials as well.

In one sample from the wall of a building in which very high humidity is maintained throughout the winter and unusual efflorescence patterns form beneath windows, it was indicated that magnesium sulphate was present in considerable amounts, in addition to sodium and potassium sulphate. In other samples calcium was present in some quantity as carbonate or sulphate. Chloride was either not detected in the samples or was present only in very small quantity. The "common denominator" of all the samples analyzed was some salt of sodium and potassium. In all but one case, that of an unusual mortar joint efflorescence, the salt appeared to be sodium and potassium sulphate. The mortar joint efflorescence appeared to be sodium carbonate.

The results of these analyses confirm a previous Canadian study of brick masonry efflorescence made by R. K. Robertson who noted that "... in all cases of serious efflorescence, sodium sulphate was invariably present, rarely being under 50% of the total content", an observation based on analysis of a great many samples taken over many years. It was reported also that other salts generally found in efflorescence are sodium carbonate, magnesium sulphate, calcium sulphate, calcium carbonate and sometimes slight traces of sodium chloride.

Weather and Efflorescence

It has been observed that efflorescence is usually a seasonal problem. The cool days and nights of the fall season seem to bring out salts which have not been seen on the surface in the summer. The intensity of efflorescence usually increases throughout the winter season and starts to decrease only in the spring. By summer the salt deposits have generally entirely disappeared. In many cases the amount of efflorescence on brick walls decreases from year to year, so that a building badly affected in the first winter after construction may be much less marked in the second, less still in the third, and entirely unaffected in the following winter.

To account for the "cold weather" development of efflorescence, there is a possibility that the rate of evaporation of moisture from brick masonry walls varies from season to season. Under summer conditions the rate may be very high, so that moisture is evaporated within the bricks and the soluble salts are deposited within the brickwork rather than on the surface. In colder weather, however, the evaporation rate may be quite slow; this allows moisture to move to the outer surface of the masonry before evaporating and leave the salt deposits on the surface.

Mortar as a Source of Efflorescence

It has been noted by many investigators that the occurrence and amount of efflorescence bears some relationship to the composition of the mortar used; with a particular type of brick and a certain mortar no efflorescence may develop on the masonry, whereas the same brick with another mortar may produce brickwork heavily marked by salt deposits. The preponderance of sodium and potassium salts (usually as sulphates) in most efflorescence suggests portland cement as their source.

In one of the Division's studies small cylinders of mortar covering a wide range of compositions were moulded with a porous ceramic wick embedded in the upper part of the mortar. After hardening, the mortar was placed in water which permeated the sample and carried soluble salts, if any were present, to the wick. The water, on evaporating from the wick, deposited the salts, the amount and composition of which could be determined. It was found that mortars made of cementing materials which were low in content of sodium and potassium compounds produced very little efflorescence on the wicks. Such materials included three types of lime, and a low-alkali masonry cement. The use of portland cement to replace lime in mortar was found to increase the amount of efflorescence, depending on how much portland cement was used and on the amount of sodium and potassium salts it contained.

In another study made in the Division, brick masonry piers were constructed outdoors of three types of bricks and of six mortars which contained various proportions of sand, lime and portland cement. This study also showed that, for the materials used, the amount of portland cement in the mortar influenced the amount of efflorescence. The study also indicated that the type of brick determines whether efflorescence will occur or not. When a brick with a high rate of water absorption was used with a high-cement mortar, the pier was heavily marked by efflorescence, although a corresponding pier of the same mortar and brick of a moderate rate of water absorption was only slightly marked. The third pier, of brick with a low rate of water absorption, was unmarked by efflorescence even though the same mortar was used. The mortar of the three piers was identical in composition; the nature of the brick, however, seemed to govern the movement of the salts through the brickwork. In one case the salt solution apparently moved freely; in the other cases the movement was more restricted owing to the nature of the bricks.

Additional Sources of Efflorescence

Although mortar is an important source of the salts of efflorescence, it is by no means the only one. Masonry units may contain appreciable amounts of salts which are dissolved by moisture and brought to the surface when the units weather. In the case of bricks a standard test may be made to show their capacity to contribute to efflorescence through soluble salt content. A brick is placed on end in a pan of distilled water for seven days, in which time water is drawn upwards through the brick and evaporated from the surface. Soluble salts in the brick are taken into solution by the water and on its evaporation are deposited on the surface.

The movement of ground water into building foundations and its passage upwards into masonry by "wicking" action is sometimes the cause of efflorescence when soil moisture carries with it soluble salts which later are deposited on the masonry surface.

Efflorescence frequently forms on brickwork adjoining concrete units. A good example of this is its occurrence beneath concrete window sills. In such a situation concrete frequently is wetted from rain and snow melting on it, and soluble salts of the concrete are dissolved and may be carried into the brickwork beneath.

Salts which cause efflorescence may also originate in the back-up masonry behind the facing of a wall. Initially, the face may be free of salts, but later become contaminated from salts of the backing materials. Prolonged dampness in walls also promotes efflorescence. Thus masonry near defective drains is often marked by efflorescence while other parts of the walls are unaffected; and walls which are splashed with water from nearby horizontal surfaces may be similarly marked.

Treatment of Efflorescence

The usual method of removing efflorescence from brick walls is either to dissolve the salts by rinsing with water, at the same time scrubbing with a brush, or similarly to dissolve them in a dilute hydrochloric acid solution and follow by rinsing the solution from the wall. In both cases it is probable that some of the salts will be carried back into the masonry when the wall is wetted and subsequently again from efflorescence. The acid treatment, however, appears to be successful in a high proportion of the occasions it is used.

When efflorescence is associated with abnormal wetting of the wall, as from faulty drains or adjacent water tables, it is of course necessary to correct these faults before attempting to remove the efflorescence. When the problem is due to the rise of ground water it is very difficult to correct, since some form of horizontal damp-proof course must be inserted in the base of the wall to prevent continued rise of moisture. Similarly, when brickwork beneath window sills or copings is affected by efflorescence, proper treatment involves the installation of a damp-proof course to interrupt movement of moisture into the brickwork.

Precautions Against Efflorescence

Since so many factors may contribute to the development of efflorescence on masonry, no one precautionary measure can be expected to take care of all eventualities. In order for efflorescence to form, however, soluble salts must be present in masonry. Some control may therefore be afforded by the selection of materials which are low in content of such salts. Clay and shale bricks, for example, may be tested according to standard methods to determine whether they contain salts which will contribute to efflorescence. Although there is no standard test available for assessing the capacity of mortar to contribute to efflorescence, cementing materials for mortar are available which are low in content of salts producing efflorescence, of which sodium and potassium compounds appear to be important. The use of lime, and of low-alkali portland cement and low-alkali masonry cement will greatly reduce the capacity of mortar to contribute to efflorescence. Careful storage of the masonry materials on the job site is also necessary to avoid contamination from salt-carrying ground water.

Certain features of building design may make the difference between the occurrence or avoidance of efflorescence. A suitable damp-proof course, such as metal foil, installed above grade between foundation and masonry wall, will prevent upward movement of ground water which otherwise might carry salts into the wall. Similarly, properly designed and carefully installed flashings between concrete window sills and copings will guard against a common source of efflorescence.

The over-all design of a building to ensure that the walls are kept as dry as possible in service, such as by the use of a roof of considerable overhang and the avoidance of horizontal surfaces adjacent to masonry, unless adequately shielded from splashing and water flow into it, are features that offer protection against efflorescence. If water drains are placed against masonry they should be of ample capacity, and they should be maintained in serviceable condition. In short, the design of a building with respect to obtaining the maximum degree of durability of masonry by protecting it from excessive dampness will also be favourable to the avoidance of efflorescence.

Use of Water-Repellents to Suppress Efflorescence

In recent years there has been developed a new class of materials called silicones, which have come into use in the building field mainly in connection with attempts to correct problems of penetration of rain into unit masonry. Some manufacturers also advocate their use for the prevention of efflorescence on masonry walls.

When a brick or some other type of unit is treated with silicone, its surface usually becomes highly water-repellent. Formation of efflorescence on that surface is then usually suppressed because solutions of salts in the brickwork are prevented from moving to the surface to evaporate as would normally be the case. The moisture evaporates beneath the treated surface, however, and salt deposits accumulate there rather than on the surface. Localized accumulation of salts and their crystallization may cause the surface of the brick to be spalled or flaked off, so that the use of a silicone treatment to suppress efflorescence may be dangerous in some cases. This is particularly true when there are large amounts of salts in the masonry and the units are soft and porous. Unfortunately, no specific rule to ensure elimination of the danger is yet known.

A different application of silicones to the efflorescence problem has been reported in the United States, where in some brick plants the bricks are treated with silicone solution before use in construction. The effect of such a treatment on the occurrence of efflorescence and on other properties of brickwork is currently under study in the Division of Building Research and other organizations.


The problem of efflorescence on unit masonry walls is an old one which has been studied for a great many years. Several factors may influence the occurrence of efflorescence in a particular case, but there must be salts in the masonry to be taken into solution by water and then deposited on the surface as the moisture dries. The movement of the solutions within masonry is controlled to some considerable extent by seasonal weather, and efflorescence is usually a "cold weather" problem. Possible sources of the salts of efflorescence have been described; these include the masonry materials used, the mortar, units and backing, as well as "outside" contaminants such as ground water.

Design features of a building which prevent excessive wetting of the masonry and prevent contamination of "clean" parts from those containing salts of efflorescence are desirable. Precautionary measures against efflorescence should therefore include the selection of materials with a low content of the salts of efflorescence and, equally important, the overall designing of a building to protect masonry from excessive wetting.

Pavement Comparison

How to Clean Oils Stains

Number one use an absorbent to ry to soak up any oil that you can. hardware stores sell oil absorbents or you could use cat litteror saw dust. Sweep up the absorbent after a couple of days. next use a heavy duty degreaser also can be bought at a hardware store and wash with a stiff brush and rinse with water. If you dont have luck with that try a mixture of trisodium phosphate and warm water ( follow the instructions on the container). Trisodiumphosphate(TSP) can be found at any hardware store and usually comes in powder form. Follow the same procedure as above scrubwith a stiff brush and rinse bear in mind that you will have a cleanspot where you scrubbed with the TSP and or degreaser. Do not scrub with a metal brush. Another more aggresive chemical is oven cleaner. Spray io on, and allow it to sit for half an hour before hosing off. You may also have to face the reality that the paving stones are permanently stained and flipping them over or replacing them may be the only alternative. If you do have success removing the stain, consider sealing the paving stones with a concrete sealer. Your local hardware store would be able to help you chose the correct type and help with instructions. You could even get creative and color to the sealer and change the color of the stones if you do not have success removing the oil. Precautions: Always use the appropriate safety equipment and follow label instructions (wear work clothes and protective equipment, gloves, etc.)

Prevent Edge From Cracking

Many different types of edge restraint materials exist, including brick, rigid plastic, wood, stone, steel, aluminum and concrete. Existing walls or structures may also be used as an edge restraint. The particular application and site conditions determine which material to use. Any of the materials previously listed can be used in light traffic applications. Only concrete, brick, or stone embedded in concrete, some varieties of rigid plastic, or metal should be used in areas subjected to light or medium traffic. Heavy traffic applications require concrete, granite or curbs of equal strength. Asphalt or an asphalt pavement does not provide adequate edge restraint for paving subjected to vehicular traffic. Edge restraints are necessary in mortarless brick pavements as they hold the pavers together and prevent spreading and movement of pavers due to horizontal traffic loads. Intermediate restraints may be used within the pavement when there is an interruption in the paving surface or on sloped or curved areas. Intermediate restraints will provide additional thrust resistance to traffic loads and pavement creep. Edge restraints are not necessary in mortared brick paving but may be used for aesthetic reasons, to reduce chipping of perimeter brick or to control landscaping. Any of the edge restraint materials mentioned may be used. Don't ever leave the cement exposed to the weather, water from the rains that drains in betweens the pavers will wash all the sand from bedding base which will cause the pavers to settle and the edge to crack.

Consumer Mistakes

A sucessful building or remodeling project requires careful planning and attention to detail. Below are the top five mistakes made in a construction projetc:

1. Automatically accepting the lowest bid.

The old saying you get what you pay for generally applies here. A higher bid may be worth the price in better materials, workmanship and reliability.

2. No written contract.

A written contract protects you and the contractor. It is required that all construction agreements be commited to a written contract if the price exceeds $2000. The CCB recommends that all agreements, including all changed to the contract, be in writing.

3. Not checking the contractors license.

A license is required for any construction business that advertises, offers, bid, arranges for, or performs any construction, alteration, home improvement, remodeling or repair work.

4. Not checking references.

Check with previous customers. Were they satisfied with the work? Was the work finished within a reasonable time frame? Did the contractor return phone calls? If the person had problems with the contractor, ask how the contractor responded to complaints. Look at examples of the contractors work.

5. Not doing the homework.

Plan your project carefully. Consider your budget. Find pictures of styles and products you like. Write down brand names and models. Show them to your contractor. Walk with your buider through a finished project and explain what you like and don't like.

Dealers Showroom

Price Table for Tumble Stone


Cambridge extra per Sf
Random design $0.25
6x9 renaissance $1.35
4x8 renaissance $1.55
Circle kit renaissance $1.75
Tulip $0.25
Random renaissance $1.55
Bullnose renaissance (3 pieces) $3.30
Renaissance wall $8.00
Renaissance random wall $10.40


Grinnell extra per Sf
Sussex 5 pieces $1.60
Monroe $1.60
Naples 4 pieces $1.60
Sussex I,II,II $1.60
Super and Mega sussex $1.60
Random renaissance $1.55
Bullnose (3 pieces) $3.30
Vintage circlestone kit $2.00


Liberty Stone extra per Sf
Waverly antique ashlar kit $1.55
Waverly antique 6x6, 6x9 $1.30
Waverly antique holland $1.30
Waverly antique circle kit $1.70
Cornerstone antique wall $7.50
Garden rockery wall $9.50
Chateau wall $9.50
Vienna wall $7.50


Nicolock extra per Sf
Rustico $1.40
Holland $1.30
Double holland $1.30
5 pieces village $1.75
4 pieces tuscany * premium colors* $0.65
4 pieces country $1.65
Crab orchard (premium) $0.25
Marble blend (premium) $0.25
Bayberry (premium) $0.25
Sage (premium) $0.25
Mojave (premium) $0.25
Autumn (premium) $0.25
Firma jr. wall $6.25
Tuscany wall $6.25
Mini colonial wall $6.25


Techo-Bloc extra per Sf
Antika $2.40
Allego $1.95
Rotondo $2.95
Athena $2.30
Hera $1.60
Elena $2.30
Atlantis $1.70
Tetra $2.50
Trias $1.80
Colossal $3.00
Classique $0.70
Victorien $2.25
Calistro wall $9.50
Quarry-stone wall $12.25
Mini creta wall $9.50
Pillar wall kit (16 pieces) $12.00
Creta wall $8.25
Belgik pietra $2.25


Anchor extra per Sf
4x8 Country manor $1.20
Bergerac $2.00
Country manor 4x6, 6x6, 6x9 $1.25
Country manor circle $6.00
London cobble $0.15
Holland Tumbled $1.25


Rinox extra per Sf
Bolero $1.70
Bolero circle $5.00
Pallazo $2.10
12x12 $2.25
TreviaLondon cobble $1.50
Norway $1.40




Why use interlocking concrete pavers?

Concrete pavers are produced on specially designed machinery which ensures an exact quality controlled process that produces paving brick of higher strength and durability than poured in-place concrete. Concrete pavers are manufactured as a single homogeneous mix throughout, not a two mix system which has a top coat. Concrete pavers have a minimum average compressive strength of 8,000 psi, compared to poured in-place concrete with an average of 3,000 psi (almost 3 times stronger) and have a lower absortion rate as well concrete pavers are the ideal product for freeze/thaw environments. WIth proper installation, this product provides a hard wearing and flexible surface. The joints between the pavement allow the walkway, driveway, or patio to move without cracking. In addition, they can be unzipped to allow for repairs or easy access to utilities. Unlike asphalt, pavers are virtually maintenance free and do not need to be regularly sealed or replaced.

Why are they called interlocking pavers?

It is the combination of the instalation system, together with the ratio between the thickness and the length and width of the paver which makes them interlocking - not the shape. When installed correctly over a base designed and properly prepared for the type of application and load bearing which the installation is intended to carry, the combination of the paver, bedding sand, edge restraint and joint sand causes them to interlock, allowing the individual pieces to work as a unified, flexible pavement.

How does the interlocking system work?

pavers are placed over a leveling course, which is over a compacted aggregate base. The thickness of the base will vary depending on the purpose of the application. The pavers are retained at the outside perimeter of the project using edge restraints. Edge restraints such as plastic edging and concrete curbs are recommended. Once the pavers are placed and restrained, the interlocking process may begin. Coarse, angular sand is swept into the joints and over pavers. the pavers are compacted and may take 1 or 2 passes before the full intelock can be achieved. After compaction, the project is ready for use. Sweeping and cleaning of the area will be necessary.

How does pavers compare with Patterned or Stampe concrete?

Patterned concrete pavements are merely large sections of poured-in-place concrete that have been embossed with a design. Therefore, they are prone to the same problem freeze/thaw cycles (ie. cracking and spalling), lower strengths and a higher absorption rates as poured-in-place concrete. Concrete Pavers permit a flexible, breathable surface, working with nature. In addition, stamped concrete requires expansion joints every 10 feet or so, which can be very distracting. Also, patterned concrete pavements don't allow access to underground utilities or the ability to make repairs. Therefore Concrete Pavers are clearly the best choice.

How long will it take for my project to be installed?

Less time than you might think. The average home patio can be installed in one weekend. Concrete Pavers make the job simple and easy. Being a mortarless system, a lot of extra work and mess are eliminated.

How long will my installation last?

Installed properly, Concrete Pavers will out perform poured-in-place concrete, stamped concrete and patterned asphalt by many years.

After installation, will weeds grow underneath my patio or driveway?

Once complete, the installation will not permit seeds to germinate from beneath the Concrete Pavers. However, weeds and grass could result from seeds or spores blowing into and lodging in the joint sand. If weeds do appear, a spot vegetation killer can be used seasonally and will not damage the Pavers.

Can I add on to my project at a later time?

One great reason for using Concrete Pavers is because you can easily add to any type of project that you are doing. All you need to do is to take up an existing edge restraint and a few rows of Pavers. Prepare the base and setting bed for the new section. This will help reduce any variance of the existing colors.

Will the colors fade from the Concrete Pavers?

Concrete Pavers are made with the highest quality pigment and have color completely throughout each unit. However, the extreme effects of the sun and elements work against all building materials. Over the years, it is possible to see the colors mellow as they age.

What about stains on my installation or any areas that may become damaged.

Stains can be removed with appropriate cleaning products. However, should a severe stain occur or some pieces become damaged, Concrete Pavers have distinct advantage. Individual Pavers can be removed and replaced in these situations.

Should I seal my project?

Concrete Pavers are manufactured to be durable. Therefore, the use of a protective sealant is optional and a matter of personal preference. A sealant will make stain removal easier, might minimize weed germination in the joint sand and can enhance colors. Sealers, however, are a topically applied product and must be reapplied every 2 to 3 years. Sealing pavers may make pavement slippery when wet. Before sealing, the installation must be thorougly cleaned and completely dry.

How can I remove snow without damaging the installation?

For most residential applications, conventional methods of snow removal are acceptable (ie. shoveling or snowblowing). Care should be taken to make sure the skid plates are set to maintain a clearence betweeen the snowblower and the pavers so as not to scratch the pavers. Please note, the use of heavy snow removal equipment may damage your pavers or the installation. Ice melting chemical products which do not contain calcium chloride are recommended for use.

Can I Install Concrete Pavers over an existing concrete walkway or patio?

While this is not the preferred method, your installation can be laid over top of existing concrete walkways, providing there is not substantial heaving in the existing area. Several other issues need to be addressed. First, the grade will need to be reaised by about 3" (the thickness of the pavers plus bedding sand or bonding agent). This is particularly critical if any doorways are involved. Second, remember that if the existing concrete slab should be reaised or drop with freeze/thaw conditions, the bricks will do the same

What is the white film on my pavers and will it go away?

White film, known as "Efflorescence", is normal for masonry products and it may appear on the surface of the Concrete Pavers. It may not occur at all. If it does occur, it is not permanent and will disappear over time. It may appear randomly or only in certain areas. It is natural occurrence from the cement hydration process. Calcium oxide from the cement reacts with water inside the pavers and forms calcium hydroxide. This seeps to the surface and reacts with the carbon dioxide in the air to form calcium carbonate, a whitish residue. When moisture on the surface evaporates, it becomes visible. It will wash off or wear off over time. If you wish to speed up the natural process, there are cleaners available that are designed to remove efflorescence.